I consider Issey Miyake to be one of the great minimalist designers of the
1990s. When I look carefully at his clothing they appear so plain, yet so
sculptural. I chose Miyake as one of my designers to explore because of his
minimal and logical approach to fashion, and his way of opening
up new horizons for making clothes. Through extensive research, experimentation
and development he always carefully considers the relationship between the
human body and clothing. Born in Japan, Miyake studied graphic design
in college. After graduating in 1964, he left for Paris to study at la
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Miyake returned to Japan in
1970 and started the Miyake Design Studio, where he established himself as a
well-known designer.
Miyake was always interested in combining technology and
functionality into his garments. In the late 80s, he
experimented with new methods of pleating. This resulted in the creation of a
new technique called 'garment pleating' which influenced his work heavily. His
iconic contribution to fashion was his Pleats Please collection that I
touched on briefly earlier in my blog when discussing my chosen subculture.
This collection was very fresh and innovative for minimalism as a subculture, a
designer considering more than just setting a trend. For this particular
collection Miyake had a unique way of manipulating fabrics, he focused on
geometric cutting and different ways to pleat the fabric to create
three-dimensional shapes. His color pallet is usually very reduced,
which keeps the focus on the movement of the wearer. Many of his garments take
on the shapes of rectangles and other geometric forms when laid flat.
However, once placed on the body, the garments take shape and create
interesting silhouettes.
His clothing to date still has many of the same
qualities that originate from his trademark Pleats Please collection. Miyake’s
clothing embodies elements that are expressed through all minimal styles, the
ability to re create form and shape in interesting ways. His work has never
been about following a trend or perhaps even creating garments that are
particularly wearable. His focus is on cut, shape and how the garment interacts
with the wearer, creating sculptural pieces that push traditional elements of
design. Miyake likes to be seen as an artist rather than
a designer, developing new ways to utilize both function and form in his
designs.
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