I have chosen to look at Minimalism as my chosen subculture.
I am intrigued by its statement as a subculture and clever development over time. Minimalism describes pared down clothes in neutral tones, with clean and sculptural shapes. Quality fabrics are used in solid neutrals, with minimal detailing. Minimalism was first seen as a reaction to the glitz and glamour of 1980's styles. It became more popular in the 1990's. It is functional, urban subdued and understated clothing which is never out of date.
Minimalism often uses the neutral tints and shades associated with white,black, grey and beige. It is an expensive, quiet and uncomplicated look based on good cut. It lacks embellishment and intricate detailing, to achieve a pure,uncluttered and simple element to its style. It is easy to wear and never feels out of place because it is not trying to compete with current trends. Minimalism consists of simple functional items that are refined to modern classic shapes. Majority of minimalistic styles contain virtually no jewellery to accessorize the look, however more contemporary jewellery designers are creating simple pieces that fit this subculture and are therefore becoming more popular.
Designers such as Jil Sander, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein all strive to produce modern classics within the framework of pure functional simplicity.
Minimalism inspires my own style in many ways, although I don't think I could be as strict as many dedicated minimalists are I respect their uncluttered approach to style. I like colour and also accessorizing so I would struggle stripping back to wearing just monochrome or muted colours.However I do like to emphasise my body with clothes that flatter, and this is an important factor within minimalism. I am also fascinated by cut and construction which I will explore further. I want to research into why designers who are influenced by minimalism choose to work in such a precise clean way, and whether this form of design is more of an artistic approach than a labelled fashion trend, with more focus on shape and construction rather than detailed aesthetics that represent a certain trend.
Minimalist clothing tend to have sculptural qualities to them which relates back to my question of whether this subculture takes most of its influences from art. Abstract expressionism is an American post World War II art movement in American Painting. Famous artists from this movement include Jackson Pollok, Mark Rothko and Clyfford Still. Many designers have referred to these artists as inspiration for their minimalist collections. Issey Miyake is one of my favorite minimalism designers.His well known collection 'Pleats and Please' really reminds me of work by Clyfford Still. Still's use of jagged flashes of colour begin to look like bits of the canvas have been torn off. The shapes within his work look a lot like Miyake’s pleating immediately creating an interesting relationship between the two and helping me to understand minimalism even more.
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Flying saucer outfit from the Pleats Please collection by Issey Miyake, S/S 1994. |
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1947-J by Clyfford Still, 1947.Oil painting on canvas. |
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Selection of pleated fabrics by Issey Miyake. |